Restoring a Traded BBB 1986 Christmas Special Make Lovat

by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the work table is one that I took in on a trade from a fellow who purchased some other pipes. It is a smooth Lovat with some significant damage to the rim top and also the stem. It is stamped on the left side of the shank and read Christmas [followed by] BBB in a Diamond [followed by] 1986 [over] Special Make. On the right side it is stamped London England. The pipe is shaped to highlight the grain around the bowl. The finish is quite clean with just a bit of grime and oil in bowl sides. The inwardly bevelled rim top is worn and has burn damage on the front top and inner edge of the bowl. The inner edge and the top and outer edge showed a lot of darkening. The bowl had been reamed quite recently and the shank and stem were clean. There is the BBB in a diamond logo on the topside of stem. The stem is quite clean but it is covered with heavy tooth damage on the top and underside ahead of the button. The stem was otherwise polished and did no show oxidation. I took photos of the rim top and the stem surfaces to give a sense of the condition of the pipe. You can see the burn damage on the front rim edge and darkening all the way around the rim edges both inner and outer. The bowl was very clean and there was no cake in the bowl. The stem photos show the deep tooth marks and the chatter on both sides ahead of the button.I took photos of the stamping on the sides of the shank, both the left and the right sides. It reads as noted above. There is also a brass inlaid BBB diamond logo on the top of the stem. I removed the stem and took a photo to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe.I started my work on this pipe by addressing the damage to the stem first. I wiped off the stem surface with a cotton pad and alcohol. I filled in the deep tooth marks on the surface on both sides with black CA glue. I set it aside to cure. Once the repairs had hardened I flattened them with a small file to begin blending them into the surface. I sanded the stem with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch pads. I wiped the stem down with an Obsidian Oil cloth after each sanding pad.I polished the vulcanite with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem. I used a piece of 220 grit sandpaper and a wooden sphere to clean up the bevel on the rim top. The front portion was burned and damaged so the sanding cleaned up the damage and gave it a new bevel. It looked better once restored.I worked on the finish on the bowl and the rim top removing scratches in the sides of the bowl with 320-3500 grit sanding pads. I wiped the briar down with a damp cloth after each pad. It is beginning to look very good.I polished the smooth briar rim top with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding it with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped the bowl surface down with a damp cloth to remove the sanding dust. Once I finished the exterior of the briar looked much better and had taken on a shine. I gave the rim top a touch up with a Maple Stain Pen. It looked much better. I rubbed the bowl down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the briar with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect it. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. Mark Hoover’s Balm is a product that I have come to appreciate and one I use on every pipe I have been working on. As usual at this point in the restoration process I am excited to be on the homestretch. I look forward to the final look when it is put back together, polished and waxed. I put the BBB 1986 Christmas Special Lovat back together. I polished the bowl and stem with Blue Diamond to polish out the scratches in the briar and the vulcanite. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipe polished up pretty nicely. The grain really pops with the wax and polish. The shiny black vulcanite stem is a beautiful contrast to the reddish, browns of the bowl. This BBB 1986 Christmas Special Lovat was a great pipe to spruce up. It is a very comfortable pipe to hold in the hand. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 29 grams/1.02 ounces. This pipe will be going on the British Pipe Makers Section of the rebornpipes store if you are interested in adding it to your collection. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it. This is an interesting estate to bring back to life.

New Life for a 1976 Dunhill Root Briar 412 Bent Billiard with a Taper Stem

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by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the table is another one that came to us from the seller in Caldwell, Idaho, USA on 07/12/2025. It is a Dunhill Root Briar Bent Billiard with a vulcanite taper stem. It is in dirty but in good condition as can be seen in the photos below. It is stamped on the left side of the shank and reads 412 [followed by] Dunhill [over] Root Briar. On the right side it is stamped Made in England16. The stamping is clear and readable. The pipe has rich Root Briar Finish with a blend of brown stains on a richly grained smooth finish that the shape follows well. The finish was dusty and lightly dirty with grime ground into the finish. The bowl had a moderate cake and there was tobacco debris in the bowl. The rim top had a thick lava coat on the rim top and edges. The original white spot saddle stem is dirty and oxidized with light tooth marks and chatter on both sides. I took photos of the pipe to show what it looked like before I started working on it. I took photos of the bowl and rim top to show the thickness of the cake and the lava coat on the rim top. There was some tobacco debris in the bottom of the bowl. The stem photos show the condition of the saddle stem ahead of the button.The stamping on the sides of the shank are clear and readable as noted above. I took a photo of the pipe with the stem removed to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe. It is a real beauty.One of the first things I like to do is to unpack the stamping and understand each element in it. I turned to Pipephil’s helpful site (http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/dunhill/shell-briar1.html). The stamping is interpreted as follows: The 412 is the shape of the pipe which is a Bent Billiard. The Dunhill Root Briar is the finish. Following the Made In England16, the 16 gives the year that the pipe was made.

From there I wanted to pin down the date stamp 16. I have included Page 2 of the Dunhill Dating Key (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/dunhill/cledat-en1a.html). Following that it takes me to the box with 1960+suffix. That tells me that the pipe is a 1976 pipe.I wanted to know more about the Root Briar finish and when it was introduced by Dunhill. I turned to a listing on Pipedia that gave me the information I was looking for (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Dunhill).

Root Briar

Dunhill introduced its third major pipe finish, the Root Briar, in 1931. The new line was developed specifically to showcase briar with a particularly beautiful and pronounced grain. To this end, it was made exclusively from Corsican mountain briar, a wood characteristically prized for its fine grain, a practice that continued into the 1960s.

The pipe was finished with a light, natural stain to allow the beauty of the wood to show through. A particularly distinctive feature of the early Root Briar was its unique mouthpiece — a marble-grained, brown vulcanite bit — that became known to collectors as the ‘bowling ball’ bit. This style, however, was discontinued with the onset of the Second World War.

Because the Root Briar finish requires a perfectly clean bowl with exceptional graining, it has always been one of Dunhill’s rarer and more expensive lines, typically available only at the company’s own stores or through its principal dealers. Its nomenclature was identical to that of the Bruyère, except for the use of an ‘R’ stamp instead of an ‘A’. Straight-grained versions were graded on various scales over the years, evolving into the modern ‘DR’ one-to-six-star system.^[122]^[123]

Now I knew that I was working on a Dunhill Root Briar 412 Bent Billiard with a Taper Stem that was made in 1976.

I turned to work on the pipe itself. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer using the cutting heads 2 and 3. I finished the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I sanded the walls of the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and both bristle and regular pipe cleaners.I scrubbed the bowl and shank with a tooth brush and some undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap. I rinsed it off with warm water to remove the dust and soap from the finish. I dried it off with a soft cloth and it looked much better. I sanded the exterior of the bowl with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch sanding pads to remove the scratching in the finish. I wiped the bowl down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad. It really began to look much better. I polished the briar with 1500-12000 grit micromesh sanding pads to develop the shine. It began to look very good. It had a rich shine in the finish. I rubbed the briar down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my fingertips to work it into the finish. The product works to clean, enliven and preserve the briar. I let it sit for 10 minutes then I buffed it with a cotton cloth to deepen the shine. The briar really comes alive with the balm. I set the bowl aside and worked on the stem. I sanded it with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to blend in the tooth marks and chatter as well as remove the oxidation and spots on the surface of the stem. I sanded the stem with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch pads. I wiped the stem down with an Obsidian Oil cloth after each sanding pad.I polished the vulcanite with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem. I polished the vulcanite taper stem and the 1976 Dunhill Root Briar 412 bowl with Blue Diamond to polish out the remaining small scratches and raise the shine. I gave the stem several coats of carnauba wax and the bowl several coats of Conservator’s Wax then buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipe polished up pretty nicely. This turned out to be a beautiful Dunhill Root Briar 412 Bent Taper Stem Billiard. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.45 ounces/42 grams. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked this beautiful little Dunhill Root Briar. I will be adding it to the rebornpipes store in the British Pipe Makers Section if you would like to add it to your collection. Thanks for looking.

Restoring a 1973 Dunhill Shell 656F/T Bent Billiard with a saddle Dunhill filter stem

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by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the table is another one that came to us from the seller in Caldwell, Idaho, USA on 07/12/2025. It is a Dunhill Shell Bent Billiard with a vulcanite saddle stem. It is in dirty but in good condition as can be seen in the photos below. It is stamped on a smooth panel on the underside of the heel and shank and reads 656 [over] F/T [followed by] Dunhill Shell [over] Made in England¹³ [followed by] circle 4S. The stamping is clear and readable. The pipe has rich Shell Finish with a blend of brown, black and oxblood stains on a deep sandblast finish and some amazing grain that the shape follows well. The finish was dusty and lightly dirty with grime in the nooks and crannies of the rugged, deep sandblast. The bowl had a moderate cake and there was tobacco debris in the bowl. The rim top had a thick lava coat in the sandblast rim top and edges. The original white spot saddle stem is dirty and oxidized. The tenon also was drilled for a Dunhill filter. There was a ridge on the underside of the stem that ran for most of the length of the stem. I took photos of the pipe to show what it looked like before I started working on it. I took photos of the bowl and rim top to show the thickness of the cake and the lava coat on the rim top. There was some tobacco debris in the bottom of the bowl. The stem photos show the condition of the saddle stem ahead of the button. There is also line on the underside of the stem that looks like a crack but it is not. It is probably a trough on the inside of the airway.The stamping on the heel of the bowl is clear and readable as noted above. I took a photo of the pipe with the stem removed to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe. It is a real beauty.One of the first things I like to do is to unpack the stamping and understand each element in it. I turned to Pipephil’s helpful site (http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/dunhill/shell-briar1.html). The stamping is interpreted as follows: The 656 is the shape of the pipe which is a Bent Billiard. The The 56 is the number for a Bent Billiard. The 6 at the front is the size designation. The F/T gives the shape of the stem as a Fishtail. The Dunhill Shell is the finish. Following the Made In England¹³ gives the year that the pipe was made. The circle 4 S is the stamp for a Group 4 in a Shell finish.

From there I wanted to pin down the date stamp ¹³. I have included Page 2 of the Dunhill Dating Key (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/dunhill/cledat-en1a.html). Following that it takes me to the box with 1960+suffix. That tells me that the pipe is a 1973 pipe.I wanted to know more about the Shell finish and when it was introduced by Dunhill. I turned to a listing on Pipedia that gave me the information I was looking for (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Dunhill).

Shell

The Shell is a deep, craggy sandblast finish with a black stain, traditionally applied to soft, beautifully grained Algerian briar. While perhaps not the first-ever use of sandblasting on pipes, the technique perfected by Dunhill is considered one of the brand’s most significant contributions to the art of pipe making. The development is documented in English patent No. 119708/17; preliminary work began on October 13, 1917, and the patent was granted a year later, just weeks before the end of the First World War.

The origin of the finish is famously recounted as an “Accidental Discovery” in early Dunhill catalogues. The story tells of Algerian briar blocks being inadvertently left near a furnace, causing the softer wood to shrink and the harder grain to stand out in a textured relief. The reality, as detailed in the patent application, was a deliberate process of steeping the briar in oil for weeks, followed by a heat treatment. Only then was the sandblast applied to cut away the softer wood, resulting in a durable, lightweight, and cool-smoking pipe.

In 1986, Dunhill introduced a premium version of the Shell finish called the ‘Ring Grain’. These pipes feature a particularly deep blast reminiscent of the classic style of the 1930s to mid-1960s, applied to briar with a superior grain pattern. The ‘Ring Grain’ name was later changed to ‘Shilling’ in 1995. Regarded by many enthusiasts as among the finest modern Dunhills, these pipes are produced in limited quantities and are exceptionally rare.^[122][123]

Now I knew that I was working on a Dunhill Shell 656F/T Bent Billiard with a Saddle stem that was made in 1973.

I turned to work on the pipe itself. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer using the cutting heads 2 and 3. I finished the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I sanded the walls of the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I scrubbed the bowl and shank with a tooth brush and some undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap. I also worked it over with a brass bristle brush and the soap. I rinsed it off with warm water to remove the dust and soap from the finish. I dried it off with a soft cloth and it looked much better. I used a brass bristle brush to clean up the sandblast on the rim top. I was able to remove the debris built up in the grooves of the sandblast. I remembered that I had not cleaned the shank. I cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and both bristle and regular pipe cleaners.I rubbed the briar down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my fingertips and a horsehair shoe brush to work it into the nooks and crannies of the sandblast finish. The product works to clean, enliven and preserve the briar. I let it sit for 10 minutes then I buffed it with a cotton cloth to deepen the shine. The briar really comes alive with the balm. I set the bowl aside and worked on the stem. I decided to address the ridge on the underside of the stem first. I checked the inside of the stem and there was a slight trough on the inside left by pipe cleaners perhaps. I heated the surface of the stem with the flame of a lighter and rolled a round lighter across the ridge to smooth it out. I repeated the process until the surface was smooth. I sanded it with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to blend it in. From what I can feel with a pipe cleaner the inside of the stem is smooth. I sanded the oxidation, the flattened ridge top and tooth chatter with 220 grit sandpaper. I was able to remove all of the tooth damage on the stem and the majority of the oxidation. I sanded the stem and tenon surface with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch pads. I wiped the stem down with an Obsidian Oil cloth after each sanding pad.I polished the vulcanite with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem. I the polished vulcanite saddle stem and the 1973 Dunhill Shell 656F/T bowl with Blue Diamond to polish out the remaining small scratches and raise the shine. I gave the stem several coats of carnauba wax and the bowl several coats of Conservator’s Wax then buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipe polished up pretty nicely. This turned out to be a beautiful Dunhill Shell 656F/T Bent Saddle Stem Billiard. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: 7/8 of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.20 ounces/34 grams. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked this beautiful little Dunhill sandblast. I will be adding it to the rebornpipes store in the British Pipe Makers Section if you would like to add it to your collection. Thanks for looking.

The Interesting History of a Borkum Riff Bent Billiard

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by Kenneth Lieblich

Rummaging through a bucket full of pipes resulted in finding some interesting odds and sods. This handsome bent billiard caught my eye because of the attractive shape and some amazing grain. It was very dirty, to be sure, but I could see the potential it held. Indeed, it turned out to be a beautiful pipe and I am happy to make it available to you. The markings were, shall we say, not immediately helpful, but they resulted in an interesting history. On the left side of the shank were the letters BR. These initials had a very particular look to them. On the underside of the shank, right near the end, was the word Israel. In fact, the pipe was so dirty that I only discovered the word Israel after cleaning the stummel. There were no other marks. There was a very attractive band around the stem: two rings of brass sandwiching a bright red acrylic ring. In order to determine what the ‘BR’ referred to, I went to Pipephil and found the exact same ‘BR’ on a pipe there. That led me to this entry:Aha! So, there were pipes made under the Borkum Riff name. To be clear: the reference to Savinelli above is specifically related to the pipe in the photos – not to all Borkum Riff-branded pipes (as we will soon see). Unfortunately, there was no mention of Israel.

The connection between Borkum Riff and tobacco is obvious, but less so the connection between Borkum Riff and pipes themselves. I went and looked up the Pipedia article on Borkum Riff and found that, in fact, the Wikipedia article is slightly more thorough:

Borkum Riff is a brand of pipe tobacco manufactured in Denmark for the Scandinavian Tobacco Group. ‘Borkum Riff’ tobacco was launched in Sweden in 1962, named after a lighthouse of the same name, located at 53° 58′ N, and 6° 22′ E in Heligoland Bight off the Dutch coast in the North Sea. It was a landmark for seafarers and was well-known to Swedish radio listeners, as weather reports mentioned Borkum Riff several times a day. The former lightship was used from 1960 to 1964 as the first radio ship of Radio Veronica, which became the first offshore radio station in the Netherlands.

The tobacco was a rough-cut blend of Virginia and Burley and had been developed by Bertil Sandegård with an eye on the US pipe tobacco market. Initial sales were slow-moving, but when Borkum Riff’s Bourbon Whiskey blend was successfully introduced in the US in 1969, sales increased. Since then, new flavours and new packaging have been introduced. Today, Borkum Riff is also sold in India, Canada, Australia, Switzerland, Norway, Spain, New Zealand, Japan, France, Italy, and Germany as well as in several other markets around the world. Borkum Riff’s biggest market, however, is still the United States.

Today, the Borkum Riff, which is manufactured in Denmark for Swedish Match, is the third-largest tobacco producer on the Swedish market. In 2011, Borkum Riff’s ownership changed to Scandinavian Tobacco Group. The ship in the Borkum Riff’s company logo originates from a 17th-century engraving made by Johann Baptist Homann.

The tobacco is manufactured on behalf of Swedish Match at the Scandinavian Tobacco Group’s Orlik factory in Assens, Denmark. Formerly, it had been produced by Mac Baren on a dedicated production line.This article had interesting information, but none of it directly related to pipes, per se. I was immediately reminded of a blog post I wrote about a year ago on an ‘Old Port’-branded pipe (made by Brigham). I wondered if it was a similar situation: could it be that when you bought a tin of Borkum Riff tobacco, you received a coupon and when you collected a sufficient number, you could redeem them for a pipe? It’s a reasonable assumption, given how many tobacco companies did similar things. You can read that article here. If you have any Borkum Riff brochures, etc. that describe this, I would love to hear from you.

So, I started searching. Not much was coming up in my searches until I found a tiny nugget that connects things together. Back in 2022, Steve wrote a blog post on a Burl King freehand pipe (you can read that post here). In that article, Steve quotes from the Pipedia post on Burl King:

We can confirm that it was at one time a pipe used for promotion of Borkum Riff tobacco, as reported by Bob Taylor of the Seattle Pipe Club, who mailed in a coupon and received the pipe with a postmark of Jan. 11, ’78, and a return address of Sparta, N.C., which indicates it may have come from the Dr. Grabow / Sparta Industries plant. Bob recently noticed his “Burl King” was also marked, made in Israel, so it was likely made by the Shalom Pipe Factory, though apparently distributed through Sparta Industries. The box shipped for 50 cents and the return address said “After 5 days return to P. O. Box 21882 Greensboro, N. CC. 27240.” So apparently these pipes were made by Shalom, but distributed for Borkum Riff by Sparta Industries.

If further confirmation was needed that Borkum Riff offered coupon pipes, then it can be found at the Baccy Pipes blog. In 2017, Troy posted an entry on Borkum Riff pipes (named Wimbledon) made by the Dr Grabow/Sparta Industries plant. I encourage you to read that post here. Thanks to Troy also for the photo below.

Eureka! Now the thread seemingly runs through everything. This information lends itself to what I suspected: Borkum Riff had coupon pipes that were made by the Shalom Pipe Factory in Israel and this is a particularly nice example of such a pipe. I’m not able to date it accurately, but an educated guess would be that it comes from the 1970s or 80s.

Let’s look at the condition. Yikes! This was one dirty pipe. Who knows where it’s been living for the past few decades? The stem was a bit scraped and dented. It had quite a bit of oxidation and the band seemed to be a bit corroded. The stummel was incredibly filthy. There was cake inside the bowl and a bit of lava on the rim. However, one side of the stummel had the most unsightly stain all over it. It wasn’t immediately apparent what the stain was, but I did wonder if I could get it off. I used isopropyl alcohol on a few cotton rounds and wiped down the stem to provide an initial cleaning of filth before moving on to the next steps. The primary cleaning came next. I disinfected the inside of the stem with pipe cleaners dipped in lemon-infused 99% isopropyl alcohol. I scrubbed thoroughly to make sure the interior was very clean. I used a lot of pipe cleaners – it was so dirty.As I was disassembling the pipe, the band came off the stem and then promptly separated into pieces. This wasn’t such a bad thing, as it simplified my restoration. I wiped the pieces down with alcohol, then sanded them with some 0000-grit steel wool. This served to both clean the pieces and slightly roughen them for gluing back together. This I did with some regular white glue. I also (eventually) glued the whole thing back in place on the tenon of the stem.The goal of the next step is the removal (or minimization) of oxidation. Going to my sink, I used cream cleanser, cotton rounds, and a toothbrush, and scoured the stem to remove as much surface oxidation as possible. As the photos show, the result was a hideous, ochre-coloured mess – but better off the stem than on it.Once the stem was reasonably clean, I soaked it overnight in some Briarville Stem Oxidation Remover. This solution works to draw oxidation in the stem to the surface of the vulcanite. This is a major aid and an important step in ensuring a clean stem. The following day, I drew out the stem from its bath and scrubbed the lingering fluid with a toothbrush. Due to the severity of the oxidation, I then repeated the scrubbing with the cream cleanser for maximum effect.As the stem was now clean and dry, I set about fixing the marks and dents in the vulcanite. This was done by filling those divots with black cyanoacrylate adhesive, impregnated with carbon and rubber. I left this to cure and moved on.The penultimate step for the stem is sanding. First, with my set of needle files, I reduced the bulk of the cyanoacrylate repairs. I removed the excess adhesive as near to the surface as possible, without cutting into the vulcanite. Following that, I used all nine of the micromesh sanding pads (1,500 through 12,000 grit) to sand out flaws, even out the vulcanite, and provide gentle polishing of the finished surface. I also applied pipe-stem oil while using the last five micromesh pads. There was a wonderful, deep black shine to the stem when I was done. And doesn’t the band complement the stem beautifully?As the stem was (nearly) complete, I moved on to the stummel. The first step was to ream out the bowl – that is to say, remove all the cake inside the bowl. This accomplished a couple of things. First (and most obviously), it cleaned the bowl and provided a refurbished chamber for future smoking. Second, when the old cake was removed, I could inspect the interior walls of the bowl and determine if there was damage or not. I used a reamer, a pipe knife, and a piece of sandpaper taped to a wooden dowel. Collectively, these ensured that all the debris was removed.My next step was to remove the lava on the rim. For this, I took a piece of machine steel and gently scraped the lava away. The metal’s edge is sharp enough to remove what I need, but not so sharp that it damages the rim.The inside of the stummel needed to be cleaned thoroughly. However, this pipe was so clogged, that I first needed to open the horribly occluded airway. So, I took a long drill bit, held in a drill chuck, and hand-cranked it to dislodge the dreadful detritus inside. Hand cranking is essential because it provides a precision and caution that a power drill cannot provide.Similar to the stem, I then cleaned the stummel with both pipe cleaners and cotton swabs dipped in lemon-infused 99% isopropyl alcohol. With a pipe this dirty, it took quite a while and much cotton to clean.I then decided to ‘de-ghost’ the pipe – that is to say, exorcize the remaining filth from the briar. I filled the bowl and the shank with cotton balls, then saturated them with 99% isopropyl alcohol. I let the stummel sit overnight. This caused the remaining oils, tars and smells to leach out into the cotton.To tidy up the briar, I wiped down the outside, using a solution of a pH-neutral detergent and some distilled water, with cotton rounds. I also used a toothbrush in the crevices. This did a good job of cleaning any latent dirt on the surface of the briar – but it most certainly didn’t affect the ugly stain on the bowl. So, I used some acetone to wipe the area down. This worked a bit, but not much – I would have to sand this area down. The last step of the cleaning process was to scour the inside of the stummel with the same mild detergent and tube brushes. This was the culmination of a lot of hard work in getting the pipe clean.I used all nine micromesh pads (1,500 through 12,000 grit) to sand the outside of the stummel and finish it off. It also removed the dreadful stain and the pipe looks terrific now. This sanding minimizes flaws in the briar and provides a beautiful smoothness to the wood. I rubbed some LBE Before & After Restoration Balm into the briar and let it sit for 30 minutes or so. The balm moisturizes the wood and gives a beautiful depth to the briar. I then buffed the stummel with a microfibre cloth. For the final step, I took the pipe to my bench polisher and carefully buffed it – first with a blue diamond compound, then with three coats of carnauba wax. This procedure makes the pipe look its best – the stummel sings and the stem glows.All done! This handsome Borkum Riff bent billiard looks fantastic again and is ready to be enjoyed by its next owner. I am pleased to announce that this pipe is for sale! If you are interested in acquiring it for your collection, please have a look in the ‘Various Makers’ section of the store here on Steve’s website. You can also email me directly at kenneth@knightsofthepipe.com. The approximate dimensions of the pipe are as follows: length 5¼ in. (133 mm); height 2 in. (51 mm); bowl diameter 1⅝ in. (40 mm); chamber diameter ⅞ in. (21 mm). The weight of the pipe is 1¾ oz. (52 g). I hope you enjoyed reading the story of this pipe’s restoration as much as I enjoyed restoring it. If you are interested in more of my work, please follow me here on Steve’s website or send me an email. Thank you very much for reading and, as always, I welcome and encourage your comments.

Restoring a Hard-Smoked Dunhill Shell Briar OX Bulldog and Reworking a Badly Damaged Stem

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by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the table came to us from a seller in Cleveland, Ohio, USA on 04/26/2022. It is a Dunhill Shell Briar Bulldog with a saddle stem that has been “ridden hard”. It is in rough shape as can be seen in the photos below. It is stamped on a smooth panel on the underside of the shank. On the heel of the bowl it is stamped with the shape number OX followed by Dunhill [over] Shell Briar [followed by] Made in [over] England⁶ [followed by] Circle 4T. The stamping is faint in spots but still readable. The pipe has a mix of black, cordovan and brown stains on a Shell sandblast finish and some amazing grain that the shape follows well. The finish was dusty and dirty with grime ground into the nooks and crannies of the rugged sandblast. The bowl had a thick cake and there was heavy lava in the sandblasted rim top and edges. The original stem is on the pipe and it is a mess. The button has a crack on the top side and the underside is missing a huge chunk from the button forward about ¾ of an inch or more. Jeff took photos of the pipe to show what it looked like before he started working on it.Jeff took photos of the bowl and rim top to show the thickness of the cake and the lava coat on the rim top. There was some tobacco debris in the bottom of the bowl. The stem photos show the condition of the short taper stem ahead of the button. Jeff took photos of the bowl sides and heel of the bowl to show the deep and rugged sandblast. It is a beautiful looking piece of briar. Jeff a photo of the stamping on part of the shank. He did not capture the shape number or the Dunhill over Shell Briar. It is clear and readable as noted above. One of the first things I like to do is to unpack the stamping and understand each element in it. I turned to Pipephil’s helpful site (http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/dunhill/shell-briar1.html). The stamping is interpreted as follows: The OX is the shape of the pipe which I assume is a Bulldog. The Dunhill Shell Briar is the finish. Following the Made In England⁶ gives the year that the pipe was made. The circle 4 S is the stamp for a Group 4 in a Shell Briar finish.

I turned to Pipedia’s shape charts on Dunhills (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Dunhill_Shape_Chart). I have included the shape charts from the site. The first is the chart as a whole and the second is a larger version of the right column.From the above information I could see that I was working on a Saddle Bulldog shaped pipe. The chart shows that the OX is the stamping for Saddle Bulldog.

From there I wanted to pin down the date stamp ⁶. The pipe has a patent number on it so that will also help with the date of this pipe. I have included the Dunhill Dating Key Part 2 chart below for you to follow (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/dunhill/cledat-en1a.html). The third column shows the date of the pipe. Since it bears the smaller raised suffix ⁶ it took me to the 1950 box. From there the key tells me to add 1950 + 6 dates the pipe to 1956.I wanted to know more about the Shell Briar/Shell finish and when it was introduced by Dunhill and how that fit the Patent stamp on the bowl. I turned to a listing on Pipedia that gave me the information I was looking for (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Dunhill).

Shell

In 1986, Dunhill introduced a premium version of the Shell finish called the ‘Ring Grain’. These pipes feature a particularly deep blast reminiscent of the classic style of the 1930s to mid-1960s, applied to briar with a superior grain pattern. The ‘Ring Grain’ name was later changed to ‘Shilling’ in 1995. Regarded by many enthusiasts as among the finest modern Dunhills, these pipes are produced in limited quantities and are exceptionally rare.^[122]^[123]

Now I knew that I was working on a Dunhill Tanshell OX Bulldog with a Saddle stem that was made in 1956.

I turned to work on the pipe itself. Jeff had carried out his usual thorough cleanup of the pipe. He reamed the bowl with a PipNet reamer and cleaned up the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the internals of the bowl, shank and stem with alcohol, cotton swabs, shank brushes and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the externals with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush. He rinsed the bowl off with running water and dried it off with a soft cloth. He soaked the stem in Briarville’s Pipe Stem Deoxidizer and once it had soaked rinsed it off with warm water to remove the residual solution. He dried it off and rubbed it down to remove any oxidation that was still on the stem. The pipe looked very good when I received it. The bowl and rim top were in good condition but needed work on the blast in the top and damage on the inner edge. The saddle stem had a large piece of vulcanite missing on the underside from the button forward. I took a photo of the rim top to show the condition. You can see the clean bowl and damage to the inner edge of the bowl on the front and back side of the bowl. The stem came out looking clean. The issues noted above are visible in the photos below.I took a photo of the underside of the shank to show the stamping. It is clear, though faint toward the stem and readable as noted above. I removed the stem from the shank and took a photo of the pipe parts to show what I was working with. It is a nice looking pipe.I started by working over the damage on inner edge of the rim. I started with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the inner edge and give it a slight bevel. It looked significantly better.I rubbed the briar down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my fingertips and a horsehair shoe brush to work it into the nooks and crannies of the sandblast finish. The product works to clean, enliven and preserve the briar. I let it sit for 10 minutes then I buffed it with a cotton cloth to deepen the shine. The briar really comes alive with the balm. I tried filling in the chipped area on the stem surface with Black CA Glue, carefully layering it on the surface. When it dried, it also cracked fell out. I tried another repair with a piece of mesh like Kenneth described in his blog on the stem repair. Once it cured it too cracked along the remaining edges of the stem and fell out. There was nothing I could add to strengthen the repair. With the various avenues of repair unsuccessful I decided to cut off the damaged stem end. I did it with a Dremel and sanding drum and removed all of the damaged area on the stem.

I rebuilt the new button on both sides with the Extra Strength Rubberized/Carbon Black CA glue. I layered it on the stem surface and repeated the process until the stem was workable. I let the repair cure overnight. Once it cured I shaped and flattened it with a small file. I shaped the slot with small files and a small pottery saw. I smoothed out the shape of the newly formed button and slot with 220 grit sandpaper. It looked very good at this point. I sanded the stem and tenon surface with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch pads. I wiped the stem down with an Obsidian Oil cloth after each sanding pad.I polished the vulcanite with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem. This 1956 Dunhill Shell Briar OX Saddle Stem Bulldog has a beautiful, unique Dunhill Sandblast finish made in 1985. The rich Shell Briar finish that is identified with some great grain around the bowl and shank. It has some great rugged sandblast that Dunhill specialized in making. The polished black vulcanite saddle stem adds to the mix. I put the stem back on the bowl and buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel being careful to not buff the stamping. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel and followed that by buffing it with a clean buffing pad. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished Dunhill Shell Briar OX Straight Bulldog is quite nice and feels great in the hand. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 40 grams/1.41 ounces. This one will be staying here as I do some testing on the durability of the repair under normal conditions. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over another beautiful pipe Thanks for your time.

Restoring a Tom Eltang Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Sandblast 190 Hex Shank Billiard

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by Steve Laug

I moved on to work on another pipe. The next one I chose was another Stanwell. We purchased this from our contact in Copenhagen, Denmark on 02/16/2023. The stamping on the pipe was very clear and readable. On a smooth panel on the left side of the shank it reads Stanwell in an arch. On the underside it read Jubilaeum [over] 1942-92. On the right side it read Made in Denmark with the shape number 190. The shank end had a gold coloured band. The stem had a gold inlaid Crowned “S” Stanwell logo on the topside of the hexagonal taper stem. The Jubilaeum series was the 50^th Anniversary line. The shape is a classic 190 Hexagon shank design by Tom Eltang and is easily recognizable as such. The bowl had a moderate cake but there was lava in the sandblast of the rim top. The finish was in dirty condition and was quite polished. The stem was acrylic and had light tooth chatter on both sides ahead of the button. It showed a lot of promise through the grime. I took photos of the pipe before I started my clean up work. I took photos of the bowl and rim top to show the thickness of the cake and the condition of the rim top. The stem photos show the condition of the acrylic saddle stem ahead of the button.The stamping on the underside of the shank is clear and readable as noted above. I also took a photo of the gold Crown S on the left side of the stem. I took a photo of the pipe with the stem removed to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe. The mortise is lined with a nylon liner that makes for a snug and smooth fit in the shank. I started my work on the pipe. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer using the cutting heads 2 and 3. I finished the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I sanded the walls of the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I worked over the rim top with a brass bristle wire brush and you can see the damage on the inner edge of the rim. I used a half sphere and a piece of 220 grit sandpaper to clean up the damage on the rim top and inner edge of the bowl. I gave the bowl a slight inward bevel to take care of the burn damage on the front inner edge of the bowl. I touched up the rim top with a black stain pen to hide the remaining burn damage.I polished the rim top with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch sanding pads to smooth out the scratch marks in the briar. I wiped it down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad to remove the sanding debris. It began to take on a rich shine. I touched up the rim top stain with a Mahogany Stain pen to match the rest of the briar on the sandblast of the shank and bowl. It looks quite good.I cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and both bristle and regular pipe cleaners.I scrubbed the bowl and shank with a tooth brush and some undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap. I rinsed it off with warm water to remove the dust and soap from the finish. I dried it off with a soft cloth and it looked much better. I rubbed the briar down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my fingertips. The product works to clean, enliven and preserve the briar. I let it sit for 10 minutes while I worked on the stem. After the time passed I buffed it with a cotton cloth to deepen the shine. The briar really comes alive with the balm. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the tooth chatter and light marks on the top and underside of the stem ahead of the button.I sanded the stem surface with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch pads to further blend in the repairs to the acrylic surface. I also sanded the deep scratches in the surface of the acrylic that ran the length of the stem surface. I wiped the stem down with an Obsidian Oil cloth after each sanding pad.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil. It works to protect the stem from oxidizing. I set it aside to dry. I am excited to put the finishing touches on this Tom Eltang Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Hexagonal Shank 190 Billiard. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and hand buffed it with microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with the polished black, fancy turned vulcanite stem was beautiful. This Tom Eltang Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Hexagonal Shank 190 Billiard is nice looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.23 ounces/36 grams. It is a beautiful pipe and one that I will be putting in the Danish Pipemakers Section on the rebornpipes store. Thanks for walking through the cleanup with me as I worked over this pipe.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Comoy’s Prince 339 Sandblast

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By Al Jones

This blog entry is not so much of a restoration but rather a focus on a unusual Comoy’s shape. I restored several Comoy’s Prince shapes, but this is the first shape 339 that I’ve encountered. We typically see the 337C Comoy’s Prince. A web search turned up a past sale of the shape on the Smoking Pipes shape and a very rare Specimen Straight Grain. This one is in the Sandblast finish and from the shape is shown as a Pear bowl on the Comoy’s shape chart.

The pipe was in such excellent condition, that I didn’t take my own typical “before” pictures. These below are from the eBay ad. Also included is the Specimen Straight Grain. The drilled C stem logo was perfect. A unique aspect of this pipe is the weight – a scant 21 grams and it is easily the lightest Comoy’s that I’ve owned.

I found the shape in a 1956 catalog, as well as a 339P which seems to have a faceted bowl.

The bowl had the cake removed and it was very clean. There was some build-up on the bowl top. The stem was excellent as well, with only some mild oxidation. The country of manufacture stamping indicates that the pipe was made between 1948 and the 1981 merger.

I soaked the bowl with alcohol and sea salt, followed by a shank scrub with a bristle brush dipped in alcohol. The stem was mounted and oxidation removed with 600, 800, 1,500 and 2,000 grade sandpaper. The stem was then buffed with White Diamond and Meguiars Plastic polish. I used some worn Scotch-Brite to remove the bowl top build-up. The bowl was hand polished with Halycon wax.

Below is the finished pipe, now en-route to a PipesMagazine forum member.

Restoring a Boxed S. Ivarrson Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Sandblast 70 Volcano

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by Steve Laug

I moved on to work on another pipe. The next one I chose was another Stanwell. We purchased this from our contact in Copenhagen, Denmark on 02/16/2023. The stamping on the pipe was very clear and readable. On a smooth panel on the underside of the shank it reads Stanwell [followed by] the shape number 70 [over] Jubilaeum 1942-92 [over] Made in Denmark. The stem had a gold inlaid Crowned “S” Stanwell logo on the left side of the saddle stem. The Jubilaeum series was the 50^th Anniversary line. The shape is a classic 70 design by Sixten Ivarrson and is easily recognizable as such. The bowl had a moderate cake but there was no lava in the sandblast of the rim top. The finish was in very clean condition and was quite polished. The stem was acrylic and had light tooth chatter on both sides ahead of the button. It showed a lot of promise through the grime. The pipe was lightly used and was a pretty pipe! I took photos of the pipe before I started my clean up work. I took photos of the bowl and rim top to show the thickness of the cake and the clean rim top. The stem photos show the condition of the acrylic saddle stem ahead of the button. The stamping on the underside of the shank is clear and readable as noted above. I also took a photo of the gold Crown S on the left side of the stem. I took a photo of the pipe with the stem removed to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe. The mortise is lined with a nylon liner that makes for a snug and smooth fit in the shank. I started my work on the pipe. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer using the cutting heads 2 and 3. I finished the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I sanded the walls of the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and both bristle and regular pipe cleaners.I scrubbed the bowl and shank with a tooth brush and some undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap. I also worked it over with a brass bristle wire brush and the soap. I rinsed it off with warm water to remove the dust and soap from the finish. I dried it off with a soft cloth and it looked much better. I rubbed the briar down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my fingertips. The product works to clean, enliven and preserve the briar. I let it sit for 10 minutes while I worked on the stem. After the time passed I buffed it with a cotton cloth to deepen the shine. The briar really comes alive with the balm. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I filled in the small tooth marks against the button edge on both sides. Once the fills cured I flattened them with a small file. I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to blend the repairs into the top and underside of the stem ahead of the button. I sanded the stem surface with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch pads to further blend in the repairs to the acrylic surface. I wiped the stem down with an Obsidian Oil cloth after each sanding pad.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil. It works to protect the stem from oxidizing. I set it aside to dry. I am excited to put the finishing touches on this S. Ivarrson Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Volcano 70. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and hand buffed it with microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with the polished black, fancy turned vulcanite stem was beautiful. This Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Volcano 70 is nice looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 ¼ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 inch, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.69 ounces/48 grams. It is a beautiful pipe and one that I will be putting in the Danish Pipemakers Section on the rebornpipes store. Thanks for walking through the cleanup with me as I worked over this pipe.

Restoring a Boxed S. Ivarrson Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 ¼ Bent Sandblast Dublin 06

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by Steve Laug

I moved on to work on another pipe. The next one I chose was another Stanwell. We purchased this from our contact in Copenhagen, Denmark on 02/16/2023. The stamping on the pipe was very clear and readable. On a smooth panel on the underside of the shank it reads o6 [over] Stanwell [over] Jubilaeum 1942-92 [over] Made in Denmark. The stem had a gold inlaid Crowned “S” Stanwell logo on the left side of the saddle stem. The Jubilaeum series was the 50^th Anniversary line. The shape is a classic 06 design by Sixten Ivarrson and is easily recognizable as such. The bowl had a moderate cake but there was no lava in the sandblast of the rim top. The finish was in very clean condition and was quite polished. The stem was acrylic and had light tooth chatter on both sides ahead of the button. It showed a lot of promise through the grime. The pipe was lightly used and was a pretty pipe! I took photos of the pipe before I started my clean up work. I took photos of the bowl and rim top to show the thickness of the cake and the clean rim top. The stem photos show the condition of the acrylic saddle stem ahead of the button. The stamping on the underside of the shank is clear and readable as noted above. I also took a photo of the gold Crown S on the left side of the stem. I took a photo of the pipe with the stem removed to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe. The mortise is lined with a nylon liner that makes for a snug and smooth fit in the shank. I started my work on the pipe. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer using the cutting heads 2 and 3. I finished the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I sanded the walls of the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and both bristle and regular pipe cleaners.I scrubbed the bowl and shank with a tooth brush and some undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap. I also worked it over with a brass bristle wire brush and the soap. I rinsed it off with warm water to remove the dust and soap from the finish. I dried it off with a soft cloth and it looked much better. I rubbed the briar down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my fingertips. The product works to clean, enliven and preserve the briar. I let it sit for 10 minutes while I worked on the stem. After the time passed I buffed it with a cotton cloth to deepen the shine. The briar really comes alive with the balm. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the tooth chatter and light marks on the top and underside of the stem ahead of the button.I sanded the stem surface with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch pads to further blend in the repairs to the acrylic surface. I wiped the stem down with an Obsidian Oil cloth after each sanding pad.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil. It works to protect the stem from oxidizing. I set it aside to dry. I am excited to put the finishing touches on this S. Ivarrson Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 ¼ Bent 06 Dublin. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and hand buffed it with microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with the polished black, fancy turned vulcanite stem was beautiful. This Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Dublin is nice looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.13 ounces/33 grams. It is a beautiful pipe and one that I will be putting in the Danish Pipemakers Section on the rebornpipes store. Thanks for walking through the cleanup with me as I worked over this pipe.

Restoring a Cased Sunalp Block Meerschaum Chinese Singing Worker

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by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the table is another one that came to us from the seller in Caldwell, Idaho, USA on 07/12/2025. It is a nicely carved Block Meerschaum Figural with a variegated gold/brown acrylic saddle stem. It is in a black leatherette covered case with a cream velour liner. It is in slightly dirty but in good condition as can be seen in the photos below. There is no stamping on the stem or shank. The inside of the case has two stickers – one on the inside of the cream coloured velour lined case that reads Genuine [arched over] Sunalp [underneath it arched] Block Meerschaum. The second sticker reads Sunalp [over] Turkey. I took the pipe out of the case. It has some patina developing on the shank, face and the rim top. The well-carved face looks like a Chinese singer with his mouth open and joyful. The finish was dusty and lightly dirty with grime in the nooks and crannies of the carved features. The bowl had a moderate cake and there was tobacco debris in the bowl. The rim top had a lava coat on the inner edge of the rim top. There is a thin “x” shaped hairline crack on the underside of the shank. It is visible but it is not deep and should not causing any problems. The variegated saddle stem had been broken sometime in its travels but had been well repaired. It is inside and out. I took photos of the pipe before I started working on it. I took photos of the bowl and rim top to show the thickness of the cake and the lava coat on the rim top. The stem photos show the condition of the acrylic saddle stem ahead of the button. You clearly see the repairs on the stem mid stem. It is a solid repair and is has dealt with the damage.The stamping on the sticker on the inside cover of the case is clear and readable as noted above. I took a photo of the pipe with the stem removed to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe. There was nothing listed on either Pipephil’s site or on Pipedia regarding the Sunalps brand. I did a quick google search for the brand and the first item that came up was on the online forum, PipesmokersDens (https://pipesmokersdens.com/threads/sunalp-meerschaum-pipes.1332/). It was taken from vkpipes and this might be the best guess

…our investigations guided us to the US trademark “SUNALP” registered by Erdal Sunalp in Los Gatos, CA. And according to this application filled in 1978 the business was related to “smoking pipes, lighters, and cigar humidor cases”. Also you may find both quite expensive meerschaum block pipes bearing the SUNALP tm and a bit more affordable “SUNALP France” artifacts. Unfortunately, the trade mark is not active since 1990. It woud be hard to believe that this is just an coincidence. It seems we’ve found a quite luxury tobacconist who ordred products from diffrenet countries including such amazing Danish works of art.

Google also provided an AI summary of the information on the Sunalp brand. I have copied the following information from that summary below.

“Sunalp” Meerschaum refers to high-quality, carved pipes sold under the Sunalp brand, a US trademark associated with Erdal Sunalp from Los Gatos, CA, known for sourcing exquisite Turkish block meerschaum, often featuring intricate carvings of figures or animals, making them collector’s items valued for their craftsmanship and smoking properties.

Now it was time to work on the pipe itself. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer using the cutting heads 2 and 3. I finished the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I sanded the walls of the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and regular pipe cleaners.I dry sanded the bowl and the light lava on the rim top and edges with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch sanding pads to remove the remaining scratches and marks on the rim top. I wiped it down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad to remove the sanding dust and debris. It started looking better. I polished the meerschaum with micromesh because it was in such good condition. I dry sanded it with 1500-12000 grit micromesh sanding pads. I wiped the bowl down after each sanding pad with a damp cloth. I rubbed the briar down with Clapham’s Beeswax/Carnauba Wax. I worked it into the grooves with qtips and into the smooth portions with my fingertips. The product works to clean, enliven and raise a shine in the meerschaum. I let it sit for 10 minutes while I worked on the stem. After the time passed I buffed it with a cotton cloth to deepen the shine. The bowl took on a rich shine. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I dry sanded the surface with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch pads to further blend in the repairs to the acrylic surface. I wiped the stem down with an Obsidian Oil cloth after each sanding pad. It began to take on a rich shine.I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil. It works to protect the stem from oxidizing. I set it aside to dry. I am excited to put the finishing touches on this Sunlap Block Meerschaum Chinese Singing Worker. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and hand buffed it with microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with the polished black, fancy turned vulcanite stem was beautiful. This Sunlap Meerschaum Chinese Singing Worker is nice looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 3 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 2 ½ inches, Chamber diameter: 7/8 of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.6 9 ounces/49 grams. It is a beautiful pipe and one that I will be putting in the Meerschaum Section on the rebornpipes store. Thanks for walking through the cleanup with me as I worked over this pipe.